Congratulations to all the CF personnel and civilians who have recently challenged exams with us.

To download your Firearms Application, Visit this Link:

It’s very similar to a CDN passport application.The license is valid government ID and is good for 5 years from the date of issue. They are FREE to renew. You can also get more info at:

We encourage you to consider us if you’re interested in Completing the Ontario Hunter Education Program.

Safe Shooting,


Important Information and Instructions for Minors (under 18yrs).

By request, below we’ve provided a summary of the special instructions for Minors applying for Hunting / Firearms Licenses.

Graduate Information for Minors (under 18yrs)

Ontario Hunter Education Program

-Guardian must sign Ontario Hunter Education Consent Form (avail. in class, or online at if student is aged 12-15.

-Guardian must sign Consent Form for Hunting License and Outdoors Card (avail. at Ministry of Natural Resources/Services Ontario) if student is aged 12-15. If two Guardians reside at the same address, then both must sign the Consent Form.

-Students entering the “Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Program” will obtain either a Class A1 or Class A2 Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Card (apply at MNR or Services Ontario Center).

-Class A1 Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Card: permits the cardholder to hunt with all methods permitted under the Fish and Wildlife Conservation Act. Applicants for this version of the Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Card must be 12 years of age or older and will have to provide documentation that they have passed both the Ontario Hunter Education Course exam and the Canadian Firearms Safety Course exam. (Note: to own, acquire and register a gun, you must be 18 years of age or older).

-Class A2 Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Card: permits the cardholder to hunt with all methods permitted under the Fish and Wildlife Conservation Act and regulations except guns. Applicants for this version of the Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Card must be 12 years of age or older and provide documentation that they have passed the Ontario Hunter Education Course / Exam.

-NOTE: The Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Program is mandatory for qualified participants under the age of 15 but is optional for new hunters who are 15 years of age or over.

Other Requirements:

-The Apprentice must be a resident of Ontario.

-The Apprentice, while hunting, must be under the direct and immediate supervision of a mentor who is 18 years of age or older, and who holds a valid Outdoors Card of the equivalent class and hunting license tag for the game species being hunted.

-The Apprentice must share a single firearm with the mentor.

-An Apprentice must possess a federal Migratory Game Bird Hunting Permit to hunt migratory game birds.

-With the exception of migratory game birds, game wildlife taken by the Apprentice must be added to the daily bag limit of the mentor.

-If wild turkey is being hunted, the Apprentice must take the Ontario Wild Turkey Education Course and pass the exam.

-A Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Card is valid for a period of three years.

-The Apprentice must carry the Hunter Apprenticeship Safety Card with them while hunting.

Canadian Firearms Safety Course

-Students aged 12-17 may receive a Minor’s License if applicable.

-A Minors’ License will enable young people to borrow a non-restricted rifle or shotgun for approved purposes such as hunting or target shooting. Generally, the minimum age for a Minor’s License is 12 years. Applicants must have taken the Canadian Firearms Safety Course and passed the test.

-Once a person turns 18, they are no longer eligible for a minor’s license. Instead, they must apply for a Possession and Acquisition License (PAL) and pay the applicable fee.

-In order to obtain a Minor’s License Application, the student’s guardian must call 1-800-731-4000 (then press 1-1-7503) and request hard copy/fax of a Minor’s License Application.

-Upon request, they can fax or mail the necessary forms to a parent / guardian.

TURKEYS HUNTING TURKEYS! The Secrets to Turkey-Hunting Success

Hello from Big Red.

Guess what hunters? We have about 90 sleeps until turkey hunting rears its wrinkled blue head for the 2010 season. For those of you that have taken part in a turkey hunt and heard the primitive gobble of a Tom, I know for certain that you are excited about this year’s spring hunt! I suppose many of you (probably most of you) are neophyte turkey hunters looking for your first bird, or maybe you have shot a Jake, maybe you got lucky and shot a Tom or two in your hunting career. Whatever your hunting past, how would you like to become a top-notch turkey hunter and know the number-one secret to turkey-hunting success?

Have I got your interest now (I am thinking yes!)?

For those who don’t know me, I’ve had the fortunate luck to be an agent hunter for turkeys and I have shot dozens of birds at all times of the year. This has given me an advantage and unique perspective by simple exposure, and I have learned some basic and simple truths about turkeys and hunting them. I am talking about the feathered kind not the human ones that hunt them (but I will talk about the latter as well). Please forgive me if you find after reading this blog, that you a turkey of the humanoid kind.

Below are some simple truths regarding turkeys and turkey hunting:

1. Hunters often use hen calls and decoys to call gobblers to them, when doing so is against the practices of nature. The truth is that hens usually seek out Toms and stay with them until they are bred. Toms with hens are difficult, if not impossible, to call!

2. Hunters frequently use one or two loud calls repeatedly, and many times they use gobble calls to entice a bird towards their decoys. In truth, turkeys for the most part are not very vocal. When they do communicate they use very subtle vocalizations that are very hard for the neophyte to mimic. When busy with a call, you are likely scaring most mature birds off your decoys and away from you. Imagine a Russian (ie. human) trying to speak English (ie. turkey); most English-speakers can easily detect the Russian in the room. In other words the birds immediately know you are Elmer Fudd trying to sound like a turkey if you are not a seriously adept caller!

3. Almost all new turkey hunters buy a call and attempt to call turkeys into their hunting area before the season opens. Some newbies use a turkey call to locate birds on the roost; some nimrods will see birds, stop their car and start scratching away on a slate call like a hip-hop DJ on a turntable. Worse, I have seen hunters walk into the middle of a field, whip out the box call, and start flailing away like they are playing Rock Star on their Wii! These savvy birds are highly wary and learn from experience; for the last number of years, this newbie phenomenon has served to educate whole generations of turkeys to be call-shy. Perhaps most importantly, you should be aware that it is illegal to chase, pursue, harass, or call turkeys before the season opens (with or without a turkey license).

4. Most new hunters try to move on a bird. They initially hear one gobble and (after a little while) it sounds like it is moving away, so they get up and move towards where they last heard it. Makes sense right? Not exactly. Many times, this bird is not moving away, but rather changing direction as he struts back and forth for a group of hens. Not only is stalking turkeys extremely dangerous (ie. GETTING SHOT BY, OR SHOOTING, ANOTHER HUNTER) but you have virtually NO CHANCE OF SNEAKING UP ON A TURKEY!

5. I often see hunters in full camo in the woods hunting turkeys, and the reason I see them is because they are moving. They look like bobble heads scanning in all directions for a turkey that could be sneaking up on them. The truth is that the turkey can see much farther and hear much better than you; if he decides to come to your setup, you will likely hear him long before you see him.

6. Hunters walk into their hunting area right at sunrise to hunt, but by this time the birds are already on the ground and can often see the hunter approaching! Alternately, hunters go into the woods in the dark and set up too close to the roost tree without realizing that the birds can see very well in the dark from way up high; the birds see the hunter and when they do, they will fly down and far away from the hunter.

OK so now that you know some of the problems, what do you do?

Firstly, and most importantly, you should never call turkeys before the season! There are a couple of generations of call-wise birds out there right now that are completely spooked by calls. Don’t be one of the turkeys that stops on the side of the road and calls turkeys from your vehicle! Scout your hunting area with binoculars first, keeping at a good distance. Alternately, you can find roosted birds late at night with a coyote, hawk, or woodpecker call; anything but a turkey call. Never approach within 100 yards of a roost tree that has birds in it; they will see and hear you even in the dark. Remember that the birds move to different areas once the snow is off the ground (this is usually sometime in March). The way to find the roost tree is to glass for birds (using good quality binoculars is imperative) after 4:00 P.M. Remember that southern and western exposures hold the light and the heat the longest, so look for birds in these warm areas late in the day. At this time, the mature birds will likely be grouped together close to their roost and will fly up at or near dusk (depending on the weather). Once you have a good idea of where the birds are (and where the roost tree is), find a couple of good setups at least 100 yards from the roost and with good approach cover! Find or build your blind (and a couple of back-up blinds, if you’re so inclined) early, then stay the heck away from it! Do not walk your dog there; don’t tell or take your friends there to show them; and do not feed the birds!

A day or two before the opener and after 11 PM, go out to your hunting area and from a distance, use your coyote or woodpecker call and try to illicit a gobble from the roost tree. This will ensure that the birds are still there. When opening morning arrives, you should be ready and in your blind/setup at least an hour before sunrise. Make sure you park well away from your hunting area and are quiet; a car door shutting or a human voice can alert birds a far distances on a quiet morning. Do not use a bright flashlight when walking in. Use a muted red lens (with a tight beam pointed low) or no light at all if you can do it safely. Once you get to your blind, get setup quickly and quietly and with a modicum of movement and noise (make sure your camo is all done up and you have your face mask on in advance). If you have your heart set on shooting a Tom, using single hen decoy early in the season is preferable (two hen decoys is even better). Stay away from the traditional Jake decoy; this prop is not natural and it will spook the savvy Toms and hens they are with most times. Set your hens at 25 yards and about 10 yards apart so that your gun is pointing at them with a minimum of movement. If you are hell bent on shooting a Jake, put three Jake decoys and a small hen out in front closer to your gun (25 yards is the perfect distance to the farthest Jake in the set). Later in the season you can start putting out more decoys in different setups, watch the birds that you see at a distance and try to mimic the demographics you see! As the season progresses the mature Tom and breeding hen setup can be dynamite and a real tail fan on a realistic Tom decoy is a bonus to fool those really amorous Toms late in the season.

Once your all set up in the dark and sitting down with your firearm or bow still in the case unloaded you can now get ready to call and what I am about to tell you is the key to successful turkey hunting so listen carefully! About one hour to 40 minutes before sun-up the turkeys will softly call to each other in the roost and most often the Jake’s and Toms will gobble once… do not call back! Wait! Naturally they will gobble again within a minute or two and this is when you should call. You need to do a really soft tree yelp and then just wait if you got his attention he will gobble again, then you wait again for the second gobble. When you hear the second gobble you can do a fly down cackle, which is just a fast series of cackling yelps and clucks while slapping your hat rapidly against your leg and by flapping it in the air and then against the ground once or twice hard. Now the only thing you should do is two or three more modest yelps and shut up!

The Toms that heard you have now marked your way-point on the tiny little GPS map in their brain and they know exactly where you are! All you need to do now is be patient, don’t call, don’t move, stay awake and wait! Those roosted birds will fly down and do their morning libations, the hens will feed and scratch and the Toms will strut and try to get lucky. And after the adult birds have paired, the Jake’s have ganged up and the hens move off on their own there is an extremely likely possibility that the Tom or Toms or the Jake’s are going to search for you and they will start at your last know location. This could be immediately after fly down or one or two hours later normally I have shot my bird within 45 minutes to an hour and most of my clients have shot birds this way as well. Be aware that the Gobblers will just as likely circle in from the other direction as come directly in and they sometimes like to use the field edge or a fence line for some cover. Just don’t fall asleep and whatever you do don’t start calling out of boredom, if you by some chance get a bird coming but he hangs up use only very subtle cuts and purrs and once he answers shut up again.
I have used this simple method very successfully for long time now during the early season and I know it will work for you if you have the patience!

Watch Big Reds Blog for some mid and late season tips soon to be posted.

Good Luck and Happy Hunting!



Congratulations to all the CF personnel and civilians who have recently challenged exams with us.

To download your Firearms Application, Visit this Link:

It’s very similar to a CDN passport application.The license is valid government ID and is good for 5 years from the date of issue. They are FREE to renew. You can also get more info at:

We encourage you to consider us if you’re interested in Completing the Ontario Hunter Education Program.

Safe Shooting,


OFAH’s Wild Turkey Hunting Seminar Schedule – 2010

Hi All!

If you’ve taken your Hunter Education or Firearms Course with us and you’re interested in obtaining your certification to hunt Wild Turkey, be advised that OFAH has just released the seminar dates for 2010.

Registration opens Jan 11! It’s first come first serve and space is limited. So, if you’re keen on making it out for the 2010 Wild Turkey Season, get yourelf into one of these seminars and then drop us a line to set-up your hunt.



Coyote Management!

OK anyone who has hunted the 09 deer season already knows why this post is going up! We have shot only six deer this year and we normally shoot 20. I am not complaining, simply stating fact. Of the hundred or so hunters and groups I have talked to the math is this, successful deer hunters are down about 70% over last year. We have two choice’s at this point in our season, we can kill all the remaining deer and starve the coyotes or we can manage the deer and the coyotes. I suppose you all know what my solution is? OK so it is going to be supplemental feeding of the deer herd that is left and if the snow gets deep we will run the plows and snowmobiles into the wintering yards to allow some freedom of movement and some escape routes from the marauding hoards of coyotes. As far as the coyotes go it is going to be a war… bait piles… calling… trapping… and even running the hounds if I can find a group that is willing to hunt down here.

One of the best methods to manage extreme coyote numbers is to get some savvy hunters with some serious varmint rigs and go on a calling and scouting mission. First thing is to find some coyotes, no problem if there is snow on the ground, just drive until you see a plethora of coyote tracks, dead stock and road kills are another big attraction for coyotes in the winter.. Make sure you get landowner permission and then have a look at the lay of the land. You need to have a solid strategy for your approach and as with all hunting wind direction and cover are job one when approaching a coyote’s home turf. Coyotes like cover and a good vantage point from which to see danger and prey, so look for wooded or brushy hillsides with a swamp and/or heavy cover nearby. Glassing with quality binoculars can sometimes yield coyotes laid up on hillsides in the late morning and early afternoon, they need the vitamin D from sunlight just like the rest of us.
So now you have found an area that has coyotes and you think you know how to approach it without getting busted! Lets figure out how to get some shooters into position so we can get down to some calling. Best time to go is early morning and set up right at first light. Two hunters are good, three is even better and you will all need to use full camouflage!  If it is winter snow camo is excellent, make sure you dress for the weather and the cover. Camo your rifle and all your equipment coyotes have extreme eyesight so don’t underestimate their vision. Three hunters in a triangle formation shooting away from each other is optimum, about 20 yards apart is good and have the caller in the thickest cover whether using hand held or electronic callers. A confidence decoy can really help, a plastic rabbit or owl and sometimes crow decoys can add a touch of realism to a dying rabbit scream and right now it is breeding season so a coyote decoy can work well too! They make some really good electronic decoys now that mimic a wounded animal and sometimes I tie a rag or bit of fur on a low hanging branch so it waves in the wind but whatever you use make sure it is well away from the hunters and in an area that you can shoot to easily without moving.

When coyotes come to a call they invariably will J-hook or circle into the call, sometimes they will pause at a distance and survey the situation before committing so be ready and alert fro any movement in all directions. KEEP STILL when you spot your quarry don’t jerk your head or the rifle up but wait for the right time to  move when it is looking elsewhere or behind some cover. don’t be whispering or talking to your hunting partners until it is necessary. Make sure you use enough gun… to steal a page from Rourke! I like the fast 22 center fires… rim-fire rifles are not enough! My favorite is the .204 Ruger but I also use a 25wssm and a .270WSM depending n the area and circumstances! Good quality optics are a must and if you spend as much or more on your rifle scope as you do on your rifle you are going to be much more successful.  Often I will carry a 3.5 semi shotgun like the SBE II with 3.5 #4 buckshot…. this is deadly out to 75 and even 90 yards with a long taper buckshot tube made for varmints! Some hunters carry both a long range center fire and a shotgun and load what the think they will need. In all cases obey the local regs and sunset and sunrise times are your responsibility to learn. If your not going to process the fur then find a local trapper who will… do not waste the hide!

In closing I want to say this… the common belief among biologists is that you cannot control or eradicate coyote populations by hunting. The wildlife biologists believe that the coyotes will just alter their breeding habits and reproductive rates to overcome any unusual pressure on their sustainable population. Most of this can be confirmed by researching any of a myriad of studies that I will  not quote or repeat. The growing deer herd  over the last twenty years is responsible for the growing predator numbers and this is just nature, again just look it up the research is there for all to see. But…  and this a one of those buts that I cannot prove but I encourage you to listen to… I believe that these biologists and the studies that they entertain have not taken into consideration the relentless nature of the new hunter and the new tactics and equipment that they employ! As soon as the snow hits the ground I am baiting and calling and hunting coyotes every chance I get… I set aside a few minutes every morning and night to glass and call and I can see a bait pile from every window of my house. I drive to work and everywhere I go with a varmint rig at my hand! I am only one of a large number of dedicated hunters who hunt this way and the exciting sport of coyote hunting is growing exponentially! I think we can win the coyote war… I know I can affect the local population by hunting…. I have done it for twenty years now and I am not stopping any time soon! How bout you get on board and do your part too?

Private and Semi-Private Shooting Clinics

In response to popular demand, Guide to Game is now offering private and semi-private shooting clinics on site.

If you’d like to develop the practical skills necessary to excel in Shooting Sports and/or Hunting Scenarios, then Guide to Game will provide the hands on training you require. Now’s also the time to think about honing your skills for the upcoming waterfowl and deer seasons.

Contact us and we’ll custom design and deliver private or semi-private shooting seminars for any firearms application or hunting scenario you can imagine.

See you on the Range,


Next steps for graduates of our July 3, 4th, 5th, OHEP/CFSC All-In-One


To download your Firearms Application, Visit this Link:

It’s very similar to a CDN passport application.The license is valid government ID and is good for 5 years from the date of issue. You can also get more info at:

To get your Hunting/Fishing Outdoors Card
Go into your local MNR with the yellow form you left with and and they’ll sort you out. Any other info you need can be found in your Regulations Summaries books that you took with you along with your Guides.

Do you want to go hunting? Are you planning on purchasing a new firearm this fall?

I am sure there are many first time shooters and hunters that want to go hunting this fall and are thinking about firearms and hunting licenses before the season. If you are one of them, you should be aware that the waiting time for your firearms license is up to 3 months! That’s Right..THREE MONTHS!

If you want to hunt ducks and geese in September with a Shotgun you need to take your course in July, and if you’re looking to purchase a new rifle or shotgun for the upcoming whitetail deer season in November you’d best take get your Canadian Firearms safety course Certification in the month of August and get your application materials sent off immediately upon completion.

Guide to Game is the only hunter education and firearms training facility in Ontario servicing both the Kawartha Lakes Region and Greater Toronto Area. Plus, ours the only facility to offer courses twice per month and exam challenges on demand.

If you’ve got any questions pertaining to the licenses, hunting seasons, or even wildlife management, we’re available. All you need to do is give us a call, send an email or register for the course of your choice online.

Summer Courses are filling up quickly so take advantage of our convenient, three day “all-in-one” courses. Our Air conditioned and fully equipped teaching centre is located less than an hour from Prt Hope, Peterborough, Bowmanville, and most of the Greater Toronto Area!

The Next Course is running on July 3rd 4th and 5th and we’re almost at capacity. Check our Calendar to find the next available course that suits your summer vacation schedule.



I am sorry it took me so long to get around to this, I have been promising this information to our readers for some time.

I often hear hunters and shooters lament about trying to sight in their firearms. They fire boxes upon boxes of ammunition, they try different ammo and often they try different guns! I have seen many perfectly good firearms cross the counter on a trade-in just because the person could not get it sighted in or could not get it to shoot accurately. Many times this is simple a case of never understanding how to do it correctly.

First and foremost you must check to see if your scope is attached to the firearm securely,  get your gun in a good gun vice or rest, even a set of bags to hold it down firmly. grab the scope and see if there is any movement in the base mount… if there is or there is any doubt then take the scope and rings off and tighten the base mount. If mounting the scope for the first time or if a firearm that has not been fired by you, check to make sure that you have the proper eye relief (THE DISTANCE FROM THE EYEPIECE TO YOUR FACE WHEN THE FIREARM IS MOUNTED!) If not move the scope back or forward until it is correct.. a good rule of thumb is 3.5 inches from your eye minimum! Check the specs for your rifle, scope and or base but a good rule of thumb is 30 inch pounds. Tighten the screws a little at a time altering the screws as you take the torque up. If you do not have a torque screwdriver and you are using a standard Allen or Torques Key just tighten with your thumb on the bend and your index finger on the handle near the end until there is a 1/4 inch of flex in the key itself. Once you base is on then make sure your rings are symmetrical and they conform to the scope, if not have them lapped until they do. IF YOUR RINGS ARE NOT PERFECTLY STRAIGHT AND FIT YOUR SCOPE YOU COULD IRREPARABLY DAMAGE THE SCOPE TUBE WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THEM! Good quality rings are essential steel is strong and aluminum is light… you can get good quality in both, do not cheap out on your mounting system. Leupold, Burris and Talley all make very good quality mounting systems. Tighten your rings to manufacturers specifications usually aluminum rings are 10-15 inch pounds and for steel about 15-20 inch pounds will suffice. Again if you do not have a torque wrench use the flex method and allow your key to flex about 1/8 inch.

Now that you have your scope properly mounted and everything is right and tight you should bore sight your rifle with either a lens type or a laser boresighter. Either of these can get you on the paper at 25 yards quite easily. But they will not and can not sight your rifle in for any practicle purpose….YOU NEED TO SHOOT YOUR FIREARM… to get it properly tuned. If you do not have a bore sighter you can bore sight a bolt action firearm by removing the bolt and firmly seating the scoped firearm firmly in a rest so it does not move. You point the firearm towards a target at a distance that you can see the bulls eye clearly through the bore of the barrel. Get the bulls eye in the center just like you would a peep sight and then adjust your scope until it is centered on the target as well.

A proper shooting bench is preferred but a table like a picnic table or portable table and a chair will suffice. IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD EYE RELIEF WHEN SHOOTING FROM A BENCH! keep your head well back from the eyepiece of the scope. If you are too close the recoil of the firearm could cause the scope to slam into your eye or head and harm you seriously. Some of the other equipment you are going to need is good quality hearing and eye protection, a set of shooting bags or a gun vice like the Caldwell Lead sled. Targets and target frames and a spotting scope is essential if you don’t want to do a lot of walking! Ammo of the type you are going to shoot or hunt with is also a  must… different ammunition will shoot differently and not likely hit the same point of aim… EVER… so sight in with the ammo you will be using.

When you arrive at the range observe the safety rules in place for that range or if you are shooting at a private range or on your own property check to make sure the range is clear and set up your firing line as you would anywhere else! Set your targets out and make sure the area around them is clear, I put the first target at 25 and then one at 100 yards for initial sight in.

Before you load this is a good time to focus your reticle, for the uninitiated the reticle is your cross hairs!

You should refer to the manual for your scope before but I will tell you how it is done for most scope. The eyepiece should have a bell and the lens you look through that is threaded onto the scope itself with a locking ring to hold it firmly. Here is a tidbit many hunters and shooters do not know! The eyepiece moves forward and back and it’s function is to focus the crosshairs … not the target you are looking at! Loosen the locking ring then look through the scope at a nuetral back ground.. a plain piece of paper or a target turned ink in will work. Then focus on your CROSSHAIRS  ONLY, NOT THE TARGET and turn the eyepiece in until the crosshairs begin to blur! Back the eyepiece out in the other direction until the crosshairs come clear again and the keep turing until they begin to blur once more. No you can turn it back in until you find the sweet spot where you crosshairs are crisp and clear! Well Done! There is also an Adjustable objective lens on some rifle scopes this can either be on the front lens (it will often have yardages marked on the bell) or it can be a side A/O with the adjuster on the left side of the scope opposite the windage adjustment knob and under the elevation knob. This Objectve adjustment is to focus your target not the crosshairs!

ACTS PROVE YOUR FIREARM and put it in the rest, put your ear and eye protection on and make sure everyone else has too. Now you can load your firearm  one cartridge at a time “safety on if possible” and then seat it firmly in the rest with the scope turned down to a low enough magnification and pointed at the center of the 25 yard target. Squeeze off a shot, you should be able to see where your bullet impacted through the scope. If you can’t see this at 25 yards you either need glasses or a better scope! Seriously now… you should be able to see the bullet hole and the bullseye you were aiming at. If not use the spotting scope (Burris, leupold, bushnell, swarofski, there are many good ones out there) If you did not strike the paper move the target to 10 yards and start again.

This is where you save all kinds of time and ammo so listen carefully! Do not reload yet! Remove the dust covers on the windage and elevation knobs on your scope. Now if you have help get your helper ready to turn the scope adjustments while you look through the scope, if not you need to do it your self! Use the proper screwdriver to fit the adjusters unless they are finger turn.  Make sure your firearm is seated in the rest or bags firmly and cannot move while you are adjusting the scope. Aim your crosshairs back at the center of the bullseye  and turn the windage knob (this is the one on the side of the scope) until is bisects the bullet hole! Then without moving the firearm turn the elevation knob (yup on the top of the scope!) up or down until the crosshairs bisect the the bullet hole again. Now, if you did this correctly, without losing your seating you should be right on the bullet hole dead center. You can firm a checking round to make sure at 25 yards or if you are confident you can move right out to 100 yards.

Same procedure at 100 you can turn your magnification all the way up now and focus your Adjustable Objective on the target if you have one on your scope, try to read the writing on the target, then you know you have it right! Fire a shot and them walk your crosshars to the bullet hole… add a little elevation if you wish, I prefer 1 1/2 inches high at 100 yards for most hunting rifles. Now your third shot (IF YOU HAVE DONE EVERYTHING CORRECTLY) should be bang on 1 1/2 inches high at 100 yards. If not make sure you let your barrel cool right down between subsequent shots and just fine tune it until your right in there.

Have fun shoot safe and HAPPY HUNTING!